Welcome to Our Travel Blog

We have returned to India after 2 years to meet our good friends at the Pardada Pardadi School for Girls in Anupshahar, Uttar Pradesh and work to establish a Health Center there! This Blog documents and shares our experiences as we arrive in Delhi on October 22, 2012 and continues through our 5 week stay. There has been incredible progress at the school since our last visit that we are anxious to see. Thank you everyone for your support in making this dream become a reality for 1200 of our world's poorest girls.

The Pardada Pardadi Girls School is located in the village of Anupshahar, 120 km (a 4 hour drive) from Delhi. Pardada Pardadi provides a wonderful opportunity for the poorest girls from the community to learn academic, vocational and life skills, leading to a productive and happy life. The school is very well run and was founded 10 years ago by the ex-CEO of Dupont India in his home village. Each girl is provided 10 ruppes (25 cents) per day for attending, amounting to $750 (equivalent to India's per capita income) for perfect attendance, which they can access only after graduating. They also learn textile skills and make products that help fund some of the operating costs of the school. This also provides them with job opportunties after graduating. I encourage you to visit the school Website at
http://www.education4change.org/



Monday, November 19, 2012

Happy Thanksgiving!


November 19, 2012  Thanksgiving Week

As I awakened this morning, in great anticipation of the day, we were greeted once again by the smoky hazed air, brought about by the fires keeping people warm these cold nights. Cold here means under 80 degrees. Last night it dropped to around 60, so it was very cold.  After a slow and unsuccessful attempt to get on the internet, the day began.
A cup of coffee means Nescafe instant, with buffalo milk.  No Splenda left, so it leaves me wanting for more…For the second cup, we wait for the electricity to come on for the day.  It was then off to school( a short walk, though 10 times a day, we can walk miles) for opening prayer.  We were greeted by many girls, delighted at the photos and art work I hung yesterday on the freshly painted walls.  The fresh paint was our gift to the school.  Art and photos look so much better on clean walls! 
As classes began, so did my search for a social studies teacher, as we brought blow up world globes to share.  Learning aids are minimal, at best. The girls, as well as many of the teachers, have no concept of the world. We hope they are used, not as balls to kick, or mobiles to hang high out of reach, but so that the girls can learn where countries are.  Besides India and America, I don’t know if there are any other countries they know of.  We like to show them America, and the route we took to fly here, over Greenland and Russia. 
I then headed back to the apartment to do some wash.   Washing is all done by hand, in a bucket. Sometimes warm water, sometimes not.  Since it is so dusty here, the wash needs to be rinsed several times for the water to go from gray to clear.  Have you ever tried washing king sheets in a bucket? Come along with us. Wash sheets, on at a time, rinse and spin by hand, down a flight of stairs, one sheet at a time, to meet the challenge of getting them on the clothes line without letting them touch the dirt. Time taken?  ½ hour. That’s all I can do in a day! Washing machines are marvelous!
As I was finishing that project, I was reminded of how spoiled we as Americans are. A pair of black cotton leggings, brought from home, worn many times, now with holes and a bleach stain.  I love bleach, as it is the only cleaner I have here.  I bought a new pair of leggings in the village($4) and threw the old ones away.  That’s what we do, isn’t it?  The maid comes back with our trash can, pulls the pants out, and asks, in Hindi, if she could have them. How embarrassed I was! This was a gift to her, and can certainly keep her warm for time to come. 
Rachmi and I head into the village to pick up eyeglasses for the 5 students we took to the eye doctor last week.   On the way, she wants to stop by her house. They are all so proud to take us to their homes.  As we take a “short cut”, across the buffalo yard in the middle of the village, stepping carefully, we then climbed through stones, rocks, sewage and buffalo dung, to get to her home. A young girl greets us, so when I ask, I am told she is 17, her name is Poonam, and she does not go to school. Her mother “expired” 7 years ago and her father does not agree that girls should go to school.  How heartbreaking this story is repeated hundreds of thousands of times in India!
 
We arrive at the eye doctor(no, you don’t want your eyes checked there!), to pick up 5 pair of glasses that we paid $30 for, to include the exam.  Since parents don’t want their daughters to wear glasses(no one will want to marry them!), Mike and I have a job to do!  We had fun, though the girls were initially nervous and reluctant, when we took bicycle rickshaws twice for this experience. The drivers of the old, rickety carts raced each other down the market road, weaving between the buffalo, monkeys, pigs, dogs, trucks, busses and cars. Not to speak of the throngs of people.  Our first trip? Doctor closed! The next day we did this again, doing all we could to make these girls feel special, explaining they will be able to see better, have no more headaches, and letting them put mine on, so we could tell them how beautiful they looked.


The office visit was fascinating. The eye doctor was very nice, spoke some English, and appeared as competent as it gets here.  He worked with equipment that was probably retired from the US in 1960. One girl was so very nervous, and did poorly because she was so nervous. We were told that malnutrition is the cause of most of their eye weakness.  Nutrition is our next project! When we left, I gave all of the girls a florescent, glittery peace symbol, brought from Michael’s in the US. None knew when this symbol meant, so we explained. Despite poverty,  these girls have been blessed to not know war, only peace, as Hindus in India.  I made a pact with all, signed them up to be members of the “glasses club”, and had them promise they would stay in school, wear their glasses and have them when we come back again. After bringing their glasses back today, and handing them out, we retested them and they were all so excited to be able to see. I think we have some converts! We even had several other girls come to the health room to tell us they need glasses.  We will provide for all who need, and hope to change their attitude towards wearing glasses.  One senior, one of the only ones we have seen wearing glasses told us, “My decision is to be able to see”….
I go with Rachmi, to the doctor, as she has a severe toe infection, which has continued for the past month. It looks horrible, and she has been in great pain. We walk into this doctor’s hut, she sits down and introduces him as the father of two of our teachers.  His office is small, old and dirty. His desk includes an old, rusty open container with cotton and gauze. He opens a jar, smears orange stuff on her toe, and very tightly wraps her toe, so inflamed with gauze.  She winces in pain. No gentle medicine here! He finishes, picks up a water pitcher sitting on the desk, pours it over his hands as the water runs onto the floor. Hands clean, ready for the next one….She pays him20 rupees(40 cents). I now know we have the very best and cleanest, most advanced medical facility in town. I just hope Rachmi doesn’t lose her toe to this infection. 
 
After school, we went on another village visit to see Sevilla.  This Class 9 student is as irritating and needy as any we have met.  She has hounded us since day 1.  “More” should be her middle name. When I give her a bracelet, she wants another. When I take a photo and give her the print, she wants more. She is merciless, and makes the greatest, pleading faces you can imagine. I love to mimic and whine back at her. She appears at the Health Center at least twice a day, to ask for something, to tell me she has headache, needs glasses, needs anything.   So, today was finally the day we knew we would make the visit.  As she dragged us by hand or arm, in and out of many homes(there is no knocking here, and anyone can wander through your house at any time.)  No one seems to mind. It’s not unusual for 15 boys to come into the house(remember, no doors, no windows) and just stare.  One occasionally takes out his cell phone to snap a photo. And the staring continues….And they wander away.


Sevilla and company( we now have a whole herd of kids along) take us into another home, to see one of our young girls making roti(think pita bread). As we watch and snap a photo of this cute, little girl, I ask about her parents. Her father is in Delhi, her mother is gone.  It is sobering to be reminded how many children are orphans , fending for themselves.  Being raised in their community, maybe every child is being watched over by the elders. This can mean anyone older than themselves. May God continue to watch over them  all.   Including the boy we met last week, walking on all 4 like a monkey, as the result of polio.  Another scene forever etched in our mind!
So, here I sit and write(electric will be back on at 8 p.m., a nightly thing), I feel so blessed to have had the gift of living, giving, and working among these people, who count amongst the world’s very poorest. The amazing thing to watch is that the children, despite unimagined hardships, are happy. They don’t whine for more, they don’t complain when asked to do a chore. They don’t make long lists for Santa for things they will never play with. Stones and old bike tires with a stick are their toys.  Their closets are not filled with clothes, unworn and outgrown.  Their 2 uniforms, often with holes and stained are what they choose to wear every day of the week, as there is no choice.  Many  come to school in flip flops, though all have received their one new pair of shoes since we arrived. They are saving them, not wanting to get them dirty. 
I enjoy my Mountain Dew, as I finish this up- my new India drink, complete with ice cubes! Progress since 2010 visit is ice cubes!! The cashews taste good, as I know dinner will leave me wanting for more. Cold rice, overcooked hot and spicy cauliflower, and roti isn’t much of a dinner for us. Yet, thousands of children in this village will go to bed with empty tummies tonight, so, why complain? At least the cashews(and my chocolate Cadbury bar for later) will hold me over. 
Our mission has been accomplished( 2 days left to go!). We have left these people an incredible gift. The gift of health care.  Without good health, opportunities are limited…Wishing you the gift of good health, and a Happy Thanksgiving. Let’s  focus on our many blessings, rather than what we wish to be different in our lives.  

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

Happy Dawali!


Happy Diwali!!

India has more festivals than perhaps any other country in the world.  This brings joy into the lives of the people, many whose lives are very dark and hopeless.  This week they celebrate Diwali, the festival of lights, the biggest festival of their year. 
                                A puffed rice vendor in our village. A special treat for Diwali.

I have said, and been told, “Happy Diwali” thousands of times over the past week. Eyes light up, and smiles beam across the faces of all with excitement of the celebration.  For our girls, school is closed 3 days this week. With a school schedule that runs year round, with only 17 days off during the year, this vacation time is a very big deal.

Today is Cow Dung Day(I kid you not!). It is a day to pray for more cow dung, hence, more cows.  Cows are central to life here, especially in rural India. The source of milk, butter, cheese and yogurt. Cow dung is used to build houses, to provide heat, and to cook food. It is everywhere!!! Tonight we participated in a ritual, where cow dung is artistically molded into a person on the floor. There are prayers, and the men walk around it 7 times. True! There is also a day to celebrate husbands, and a day to celebrate brothers. There are no days for women, something we find inconceivable!
                               The Cow Dung Man

On Monday the school celebrated in a very big way, and we were grateful to be able to play a big role in it.  The day began with a school assembly to celebrate the girls who are scouts who came in first place last weekend in the District Scout competition. They received 2 big trophies, certificates, and will go to the next level this weekend   We were honored to be there Sunday afternoon as the closing ceremonies took place. Sitting up of the stage, in the front row, made us feel like celebrities(we now know what William and Kate experience!).  We were more excited that the girls had us there for them!

Mike and I then handed out toothbrushes, toothpaste and toothbrush holders to Classes 9-12. 144 in all!  The rest of the 1200 girls got new toothbrushes from us.  The distribution was quite an experience, especially when they all wanted to trade colors for their  favorite- something we put a quick stop to, suggesting they trade with friends instead. 

From there we were able to provide an incredible opportunity…Through Linked In, Mike connected with a women living in California, from Delhi. She followed up by telling us 2 weeks ago, that her parents, who live in Delhi, wanted to come to the school on Monday to distribute a clothing gift to each and every girl. This couple arrived with 1200 dresses for the little ones, sweaters for the elementary kids, and shawls and blankets for the older girls.  Not only did they bring the clothing, but they gave each girl 10 rupees(20 cents) and a chocolate bar. We can guess that some of these children had never held a 10 rupee note before.  The handout of all was so much fun to watch, as the littles ones pulled out the most glitzy and tackiest little Indian dresses with leggings I’ve ever seen. The more satin, rhinestones, lace and glitter, the better!  This may be, for most, the first new article of clothing they have ever owned.  What a random connection on Mike’s part, and what a gift for the girls.

Our gift to them was a banana for each. With concerns over their diets, despite being fed 3 meals a day at school, they get no fruit.  Though 25 bananas cost about $1, at this time, fruit isn’t within the schools budget. We hope to make that happen before long  The girls also each went home with a bag of sweets. What a day it was!!

We then came to Sam’s house for the holiday, which has been wonderful.  His family are landowners, owning who knows how many miles of fields. His home is a palace, a stark contrast from where the kids come from.  We have had lots of great food, conversations about the life situations of some of the students, and making plans on how to handle them.  We celebrated Dawali last night with pooja(prayer) and the traditional ceremonies that go along with the Hindi religion.  We have taken walks through his village and visited the home of one of our girls.

Some stories-
Sam invited 4 students(2 do not go to our school) to talk about what they want to do with their lives beyond graduation. 1 girl, focusing on science, wants to be a doctor, but does not know how to make that happen. Sam is connecting her with someone who can make it happen!

There is a mentally challenged girl in a village, for whom Sam is concerned. Within the next couple of years she could end up pregnant, raped by a man who would know her vulnerability. Sam is hoping to have her parents sign a consent to have her tubes tied, and will pay for the operation so she can be protected.
A 13 y.o. was recently severely beaten by her father and brother, having been caught talking to a boy. The father threatened to kill her. She was sent off to a school in Delhi, but ran away. Her parents plan to marry her off soon, so they can be rid of her. Sam wants to return to talk to the parents, and offer her a vocational job at the school, so she doesn’t get married, and can make some money. Her sister is deaf and non-verbal, and works in the sewing vocational program. She is supporting her entire family on the, maybe, $20/week she earns. 
A wonderful teacher at the school, Rena, and another staff person, Retul, eloped 2 weeks ago This is not only unheard of, and completely unacceptable, but has caused great trouble to them. Mike an I are, of course, all for their love marriage.  Her parents are angry and have rejected her, as she married below her caste. This is not a good thing. We are going, along with Sam, to meet with her parents tomorrow in hopes of them changing their minds.
When we were here in 2010, I developed a special relationship with her, and told her when she married, because she is educated, beautiful and has so much to offer, that she needed to marry a man who would treat her like a princess. She has now, to many, become “Mary’s princess”. Her response was, “I don’t’ know, mam, my father will decide.”  I went on to tell her that she needed to tell him what I said. I am thrilled that she has married a guy she loves, and who will make her happy, but so sad that this society is set up to allow this to happen. 
Women are so unjustly treated here. They are at the bottom of the rung, and we are working hard to change this by changing our students.  They deserve so much more than what this country currently allows them to have.

Saturday, November 10, 2012


November 7, 2012

Today marks two weeks since we landed in the village. For whatever reason, it doesn’t feel as foreign as a planet as it did when we showed up here for the first time in 2010. Mike describes it as “familiar filth”.
Street Dwellers

Today is a day we celebrate, as we believe we hope to have hired a nurse for the Health Center.  Elsa, is a 50ish year old woman, who has been a nurse for 26 years. She worked for 11 years in Saudi Arabia(a common work destination for many Indians), and has spent the last 6 working at a hospital in Delhi. She speaks fairly good English, was great with the children today when she came to visit. She will be a most welcome, and much needed, addition to this community.  We are thrilled to have found her.  She is just who we were looking for, as we wanted an older woman, who could also counsel the girls, as their lives and needs present great unimaginable difficulties and challenges.

All of the girls at the school receive iron tablets weekly, as they eat virtually no protein. These tablets are to be provided by the government, but like everything else here, that really doesn’t happen. So many things here make absolutely no sense to us.  For the past 2 weeks, there were no tablets, as the “government policy on iron tablet distribution“ is being changed. Whatever that means.  Hence, Sam made several calls on Monday to get find out when we would be getting the supplements.  We are going to purchase a quantity to have as backup when this happens again.  The girls need their iron!!! And there shouldn’t be a 3 week gap between pills that we would take daily.

Today is Thursday, and we finally get to pick up the pills. Times keep being changed. Why can't they just be delivered? Why do we have to go to the government hospital, again? So,  I accompany our student nurse, Rahsmi, to the hospital to pick them up.  We waited 45 minutes, and were  told “5 more minutes” way too many times. A “doctor”(they all call themselves doctors, but there are no real doctors here), with whom I expressed my frustration at the waiting, asked me if I was a doctor.  I told him I was a doctor, from America, and was here to open the Health Center at the school. His eyes brightened, and he asked what kind of doctor I was. I told him I was a pediatrician. His entire attitude changed and the pills were delivered within 5 minutes.  I think he was impressed that a pediatrician from America was in town.I also think he got tired of hearing me. If I didn't say anything, we could still be sitting there. Everything takes forever here, as all they have is time....

Rashmi, our school nurse
When Rashmi asked me if the hospitals in America were like this one….what could I say? She asked if they were clean.  And how they were different? How do I count the ways? I told her they were very clean, that there were no dogs or cows in our hospitals, and that they were not open( no doors, no windows), to keep the air clean and the dirt out. We have no dead bodies laying outside our hospitals. We have no sick people laying on the grass.  We have no piles of medical waste scattered on the property.  Tomorrow, I will show her some photos of hospitals in America, so she can see  the differences. It won’t be hard to tell.  I have encouraged her to become a nurse, so that she could make a difference and teach the hospitals in India how they could be like ours.

We visited a home of one of our families this week. What an experience that was! Instead of going from home to home, we went to Bharti’s home and were there for an hour or so. Her mother works in our kitchen, supervising the preparation of 3 meals a day for 1200 girls, 6 days a week. We rode one of the school buses home to her home.  When we arrived at their house, she started the fire on the floor inside the house(1 room with 1 bed for all), and then went out to care for the 2 buffalo and 2 calves.


After filling a bucket from a water pump to wash the utters, she milked the buffalo by hand. She then cooked the milk on the fire, and served Jen, a 21 y.o. French volunteer, and myself, hot buffalo milk. Jen looked at me and said “I don’t drink milk”. “Neither do I, I never have, but we are today”.  We had no choice as it would be rude to turn down freshly pumped buffalo milk. As always, we were served treats. We both picked up a round ball, and hesitantly bit into it. It was awful and tasted like buffalo dung!! Something I have learned from our time here before….I always carry tissue and my bag, done for a very good reason. You can discreetly get rid of those things that you just can‘t stomach.   I took Jen’s from her to dispose of,  as well.

Our visit included: 1. the grandmother and grandfather, who had been gone the day,  returning by ox cart with a bushel of grass, which they separated and hand churned through a machine to chop for silage(grain was separated out) ,

2. the aunt  picking up the buffalo dung by hand and putting it into a huge bowl that she hoisted on her head to carry away(it is really heavy!),

3. Bharti gathering vegetables so she could sit on the ground and chop the potatoes, peppers, etc for their dinner; the mom caring for the animals,

4. The 15 year old sister telling me she is studying hard so she doesn’t have to care for the buffalo, and, 5.  the grandfather walking us the couple of miles back to school. For the past few years, Bharti has delivered buffalo milk to the Teachers Colony(where we live with 2 others) every day of the week before school.  She comes with a pail of milk, even on Sunday, when there is no school. Imagine sending our kids off to do a chore like that every day of the year? Monsoon season, 115 degree summer and the cold of winter? She seems to be very happy with this task.

Our days here are filled with ups and downs. There are days Mike and I look at each other and ask why we are here. There are other days, where we are overwhelmed with gratitude and experience the grace of doing what we are doing. We  know, from the bottom of our hearts, that we are making a huge difference in the lives of Pardada Pardadi girls. We have become very possessive. We love and care very much for all of them.  We want the best for each. We want them to be here at school, where they are safe, where they are protected, where they can learn, and where they can develop the hope for a better tomorrow.

Sunday, November 4, 2012


November 4

It's Sunday morning, the only day off from school, so it is nice to be hanging out this morning with internet connection.  Since the English newspaper won't be delivered until later, I thought I'd share
some of the highlights of the past few days. There are always many, which you may never think about in the USA.

Having recovered after two hospital visits this week(tours!), we are happy to report seeing no signs of leprosy in either of us. These are written about in the following blog. I failed to mention that the leprosy doctor we met with has the disease himself. Otherwise, who would treat the lepers? Pretty bizarre concept, huh?
Leprosy Doctor explaining to us the symptoms.
Hospital TB Lab

We brought 40 bright blue backpacks with us from the US. Yesterday, we handed them out
to the students who have had perfect attendance since July, which was the beginning of the school year. There is no school summer break here. Girls attend school year round, with 18 days off. The new academic year begins 7/1. 11, out of 400 students, in grades 1-5 kids, received them. A  total of 32 in the entire school. It was a big day, as many of their parents(20 out of 400) came to school. We took photos with
the students and their parents, and made a big deal of out their perfect attendance.There were even 3 fathers here! That is most special! It was also a time for parents to meet with teachers(our  parent teacher conference).


25 more solar lanterns were distributed yesterday, so we took part in that distribution, as well.
Mothers who received them were told that if their daughters' attendance dropped below 70
percent, they will lose their lantern. Last night, we went back to the same community,Madargate(this is the very poorest community). The population is mostly muslim, very lowest caste, the one the school is most actively working in to implement changes. As a result, great thingsare occurring there. The new lanterns are sturdier, smaller and brighter than the original 100, distributed over the past several months. It is exciting to see these women receive their lanterns, as they have seen the way they light up homes as never before.

Every Sat. night the school shows a movie at the toilet complex there. We went to the movie, which was a 60's black and white hindi film. They charge 2 rupees(4 cents) for adults to watch it. Free for
kids. Instead of paying the $$, the residents sit up on the 6' wall to watch. It was a big night, as 68 people bought tickets. Total revenue? $3 US.

With about 100 kids there(and very  few parents), I thought about the babies being made while they kids were at the movie. Scary thought, as there are tons of babies all over. If they can walk, they wander the streets aimlessly, often naked and alone.

A graduate at the school is the first female here to drive a scooter here in the village.The school bought one to teach those who want to learn to drive. Really cool to watch the graduate, now a village worker, ride her scooter off to work. Her brother bought it for her.


A potential new school nurse is being interviewed for position on Monday. She sounds like an awesome candidate, so I am praying she is and can get here soon.  Our 17 y.o. current "nurse" is doing well, but
truly not qualified for the job. She is a teenager who needs prompting and direction.

We visited another school last week, and found the conditions to be deplorable. Since they don't use t.p. in India, they wash with water that is in a bucket. A rusty bucket, filled with water, sat in the toilet for the girls to use. Our school has hoses, a big step up from rusty paint bucket! There was garbage in their only sink.
Their computer lab consists of 3 broken computers, yet they boast of having a computer lab. Their health care consists of one small first aid kit. No nurse! No facility!Thursday was another big festival. Married women fast, from food and water, for the day. They pray for their husbands to have long lives. At midnight,
they drink a drop of water from husbands hand to honor him. There is no festival held to honor wives. Hmmmm.

Today is big day. 1200 women are coming from their villages to the launch of the Self Help Group program. These women will be using toilets many for the first time. Students will show the women how to use toilets,
as they have only ever used fields. There are no toilets for 50000 families here, other than 89 school has built for top students, as well as the one community toilet.The students will also serve them water, from shared cups. They usually get their water from the village well, instead of from pitchers being poured into cups. They fill water cup, and pour it into their mouth, so they don't drink directly from it.  Another new concept!!!!

We are off to meet with Renuka and nurse about health program, and what sanitation and hygiene mean. It doesn't mean putting new bandaids on the floor! Til next time....

Saturday, November 3, 2012


November 1, 2012

We have been in Annupshar at the school for one week today. It seems like it’s been months since we were left the USA. Things we encounter on a daily basis begin to seem like the norm now. No electric, so we use a candle or a headlight to see. The air always smells like something burning, never fresh like at home. No meat, meals are what we are served. I will never like cold white rice, but we eat it two times every day. Nothing is crisp or fresh. Veggies are cooked for hours.  Being unsatisfied after meals? Yes. The good news is we have our secret stash of food that villagers might kill for.
I had a cold diet coke yesterday, with ice, a major treat! Otherwise, it’s water, and it’s not cold.a

As we work on developing the health curriculum for the school, and look at the topic of nutrition, my heart breaks. I choked up today as I thought about this topic, coming from a country where obesity and excess are the norm. There are no girls here that are obese. Because they are in school, at least our girls are not starving.

So much for the food pyramid, healthy food choices, etc. For our 1200 girls there is no food pyramid. We can teach them what that might be about, but for what purpose? They eat what they are lucky enough to be fed. If they are fortunate enough to be fed. Here at the school, students get three meals a day, 6 days a week. This cannot be compared to how American  children are fed. No way…

For breakfast, served around 10 a.m., after being up for hours working before coming to school, they get gruel. Today, because of a special assembly, they got a piece of bread instead. Lunch may include dal(lentils) and rice, or a bun and veg. Before they go home, they get another carb.  No fresh fruit and vegetables, virtually no protein. Drink? Water. No other option.


                                         The school bakery

Mike and I want to provide the girls with fresh fruit, so we are considering 1 banana a week, paid for out of our budget. This would cost $120/month. We want so much more for them, but money is always an issue. We are reminded that if they weren’t in school, they wouldn’t be getting what they now get.  These are the fortunate ones, as so many in the village, young and old, are starving.

So many changes have happened since we were here in 2010:
-The girls no longer have to clean the school. Women are being employed to do that now, resulting in it being much cleaner than it was.
-The trash is now contained and burned, rather than blowing about the field with the kids and wild animals scouring through the garbage.
-The girls can now ride pink bikes(supplied by the school) to school, instead of boys bikes.

-There are 2 new buildings, one for the 200 preschoolers, one for the big girls. The new building has new computer lab, a science lab, a leadership room, and an English lab.
-The girls are no longer sewing 4 hours every day. The school now employees 80 women from the village, who are sewing to produce 8000 suit bags a month for a large company.  Rural development is happening, women are working and earning money!
-There was a first aid kit at Games Days this week
-There are still 135 kids on a school bus that holds 50. Terrifying to think of safety issues!

-Dish soap is now being used in the kitchen to wash dishes. Soaps and detergents are a new concept, thanks to the hygiene program.

We are also thrilled that a solar lantern project was started earlier this year, by a Harvard graduate who is volunteering at the school. Now, 100 families in the very poorest village safely light their homes at night. The recipients of the lanterns are those who have girls attending school regularly. It is amazing how many children are not going to school here, so we hope to motivate mothers to send their girls. Many refuse, even though the lantern is being offered. They will return their lanterns if they decide school isn’t for their daughters.  What is wonderful is that the girls can now read to their siblings at night.




The unschooled wander the streets, half naked, barefooted, with no adult supervision. Playing with stones or squatting over the open sewers to go to the bathroom. They carry heavy loads of wood and bowls of dung home with them.  They work in the fields with their mothers. They are filthy, dirty noses and faces. No hope for a bright future with so many.

Our days fly by. We ask what we do, and what we need to do before we leave here in 21 days. Each day unfolds, as soon as we walk out our door. “Good morning, mam, Good morning sir” is heard hundreds of times, as we’re greeted by big smiles, and outreached hands, looking to be held.

I stop to pull out some thin, simple books we brought along, and 25 girls  gather to listen intently as I read. They repeat the English words and love the pictures. They offer me a seat, so they can see and hear more.  As I move on, I hand out friendship bracelets(3 strands of embroidery thread) and show them how to braid and tie the bracelet on their wrists. (I‘ve now got 10!).

I take a bottle of liquid soap and stand by the water troughs and squirt the hands of the girls that come along,  telling them to wash their hands after toileting. They wash, suds, rinse and are told to see how good their hands smell. The smiles and excitement make it all worthwhile! I teach them the English words- soap, wash, water, smells good.  I  distribute bars of soap to all of the dishes we installed in 2010. They are all gone by the end of the day.

Great news! We had 10,000 bars and bottles of liquid soap donated yesterday, so the intent is to flood the school with soap. We are so excited, as soap distribution has been a 2 year struggle, as we have tried to determine the best option, since we introduced it to PPES.

I follow the kids to their daily teeth brushing, another project we introduced in 2010. I egg them on by asking them to show me their clean, white teeth. They do it so proudly! It’s great this project has taken hold and become a part of their daily activities.

Oh, and then there’s the hours spent in the Health Center. We love it! It is bright, well lit and furnished, and now very well stocked with medical supplies.  I tended to 10 girls in an hour this afternoon. Cut toes, earache,  stomach ache, finger cuts… Infections on cut toes are incomprehensible. It is so dirty, there is no concept of keeping feet clean. I clean the wounds, Neosporin, bandage and tell them to come back and see me the next day.  My goal is to show the girls that I will not hurt them. I use hydrogen peroxide, and they cringe, thinking it will hurt.  They love the fun bandaids from America.

Today was a big school assembly, to distribute trophies to the winners of Games Days. This took place 2 days this week, with 8 area schools participating.  The girls had lots of fun with relays, 3 leg races, sack races, long jump, etc.  Mike and I were among the honored guests who were on stage to hand out the trophies and have our pictures taken at least 50 times with the winners.  There is no end to the things that go on around here.


Yesterday was a day that will leave an indelible mark on my soul forever. We visited a hospital, and witnessed what is seen on documentaries and movies, in real life.  Upon entering the lane where the hospital is, an ox cart with 4 people sitting, and a body wrapped in cloth, was by the side of the road. An old man was laying on the grass on a cloth, obviously in need of being in the hospital.  When we walked in, the scene was indescribable.  Filthy, worn, sparsely furnished, rooms with nothing but an old bed and empty desks for the “doctors”. A dog wandering about. Hospital garbage, to include used syringes, scattered about the grounds. We have great photos of the day. I was left feeling ever so grateful to live in the USA, and hope to God that we never need a hospital here.


Today we visited another hospital, which was worse than the last. No electricity, dark, dirty. We met with the malaria, leprosy and TB doctors.
We came back feeling totally contaminated and ready for a good wash down. Again, incomprehensible conditions. We didn’t want to stay any longer than necessary, knowing that the patients wandering around the lobby were sick, with diseases we no longer have in America.



Do we miss the comforts of home. Sure, but not really.  Knowing the difference we make, makes not having a nice green salad, or ice cream, tonight worth it.